What are the benefits of exfoliating?
“The purpose of exfoliation is to remove the upper layer of dead skin cells resulting in a brighter, more even complexion, potentially with reduced congestion or blackheads,” says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible: Your No Nonsense Guide To Great Skin.
“Exfoliation will not only make the texture of the skin look better, but will also improve age spots and uneven skin tone, as well as allowing better penetration of your serum or moisturiser.”
How do I exfoliate my face gently?
The key here is not to over do it – and that goes for frequency as well as how harsh you’re scrubbing (if you’re using a physical exfoliant).
If you’re new to exfoliating, opt for a mild chemical exfoliant (like lactic acid or PHA) or a very fine physical polish, and use it no more than 1–3 times a week depending on your skin type. Always apply to clean, damp skin, avoid scrubbing with pressure, and follow with a hydrating serum and moisturiser to support your barrier. If you notice redness or tightness, scale back – gentle exfoliation should leave your skin smooth and comfortable, never sensitised.
It’s important to bear in mind that over-exfoliating can cause issues, so monitor your usage and keep an eye on how your skin responds. You can react accordingly by upping or lowering the frequency with which you use it. “Exfoliating more than your skin needs can deplete its barrier function and cause capillary damage, leaving skin dehydrated and weak,” explains Pamela.
In terms of ingredients, glycolic acid is a hero exfoliator and one of the most common ones you’ll spot in chemical exfoliators that will work on most skin types. That said, before deciding whether it will work for you, be sure to check the concentration on the bottle. For example, Pixi’s iconic best-selling product, the Glow Tonic, contains 5%, which is about average. More than that and you might want to limit your usage to once a week.
Is exfoliation suitable for sensitive skin?
The short answer is yes, but only when incorporating the right gentle formulas and when used in moderation. If your skin appears red, flaky or irritated, you’re probably using a product that is too strong, or applying it too often, so pare it back.
As for sensitive skin or dry skin, lactic acid and enzyme exfoliators can be a more gentle alternative. And more importantly, don’t forget to supplement your skin with a reliable sunscreen or even a moisturiser with SPF (with soothing and hydrating ingredients such as green tea, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and/or vitamin E), since exfoliation makes your skin more vulnerable to sun damage.
How often should you exfoliate?
In general, depending on the type and strength of the exfoliator you’ve chosen, it’s a good idea to exfoliate 2-3 times a week in order to lift any dead skin cells, clean out your pores and reveal your skin’s natural glow. For a more thorough look at this, take a look at our complete guide to exfoliating.
Should you exfoliate with a physical scrub or a chemical exfoliant?
There are two types of exfoliator to choose from: physical and chemical. Physical exfoliators like scrubs, flannels and cleansing brushes involve manually buffing the skin, with salt, grains, bristles or fibres. “A facial scrub is a physical exfoliant that is usually formulated with exfoliating beads or natural grains such as sugar, salt or jojoba,” says Daniel Isaacs, Chief Product Officer at Medik8. “These work by gently and ‘physically’ polishing the surface of the skin; removing dead skin cells to reveal a radiant, refreshed-looking complexion underneath.”
Elsewhere, Daniel explains that chemical (or liquid) exfoliators include products that contain acids such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid and mandelic acid that ‘chemically’ exfoliate the skin rather than physically polishing away dead skin cells through a few swipes of a cotton pad. Alternatively, some exfoliators also include fruit enzymes such as pumpkin and pineapple.
“There are many different types of exfoliating acids, but the main categories are AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) and PHAs (polyhydroxy acids). These acids help to break down the bonds between skin cells, allowing them to shed away more easily and therefore stimulating faster skin cell turnover.”
They work in a similar way to a nail polish remover, breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together in order to lift them away. The difference, is they’re much, much gentler and more diluted compared to their physical counterparts.
Who shouldn’t use an exfoliator?
The face scrubs included in our edit below are gentle and formulated for daily or weekly use, but those with certain skin concerns should be careful with any type of exfoliation. If you’re dealing with a breakout more often than not, look for exfoliating acids, like the aforementioned BHAs and AHAs, over scrubs. For combination skin, derms often recommend a physical-chemical hybrid. The sandy texture removes dead skin cells with friction, while acids and enzymes get rid of oil without bothering your dry spots.
“It’s important not to overload the skin with too many exfoliants in one regime as this could lead to an impaired skin barrier and, ultimately, sensitised skin,” Daniel says. “If you’re using high-strength exfoliating treatments, we always recommend that you follow the product’s specific guidelines. Additionally, we recommend that you look at the ingredients in the rest of your skincare routine, to ensure that you’re not overloading your complexion with too many exfoliating acids.”
Dr Tewari agrees: “I think those that have rosacea, sensitive skin or have acne-prone skin and have treated their skin already with a number of acids need to be very careful and need to ensure if they want to use a scrub the kernels are very fine and don’t cause any skin abrasions.”