There’s plenty of room to play around. Susan Oludele, a braider in New York City and Los Angeles, likes to wrap the ends of her client’s cornrows into pinwheels to create Koroba braids (a style with Nigerian roots). “A lot of the old hairstyles from Africa are resurfacing again,” Oludele says. “People want more cultural and artistic looks.” Alternating the widths of the braided rows is another popular way to spruce up this simple style.
One of the biggest perks of cornrows is the easy access it gives to your scalp for weekly hydration. Patricia Oyetakin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist, recommends using a scalp spray with jojoba seed oil or tea tree oil. “Tea tree is undefeated when it comes to its well-known antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties,” says Dr. Oyetakin, who adds that jojoba oil also has antimicrobial properties in addition to being highly moisturising.
FAQs
How to prevent scalp buildup with braids
If you’re doing your own braids, you may be tempted to pack on the gel for a neater finish, but experts say that’s a fast track to flakes and scalp buildup. “Remember, your scalp is also part of your skin and wants to be moisturised at all times,” says Dr. Oyetakin. Heavy stylers with alcohols can dry out the hair and scalp, causing product buildup that leads to dandruff-like flakes.
To avoid this, consider using a light hand when applying gel to your parts or choose water-based products, like Shea Moisture Define and Shine Edge Gel, made without alcohol and containing moisturising agents, like flaxseed oil and glycerin. You can also use a mousse or foam, which Kirkpatrick finds results in less buildup.
If you go to the salon, ask your braider beforehand if you can bring your own gel or let your stylist know that you prefer little or no gel for your braids.
How to make protective braids last in humid weather
Hotter temperatures and humidity can cause your scalp to sweat more, which can result in frizzy braids soon after your appointment. To combat this, be sure to properly wrap your hair in a silk or satin scarf at night to help your style last as long as possible. “Silk is a natural protein fibre, and its breathable, smooth, and slip-rich qualities allow hair to glide rather than snag overnight,” Cataanda James, a licensed cosmetologist, explained. A satin scarf will tame any frizz or flyaways while you sleep for a smoother style in the morning.
Greene also says using braiding hair or extensions that match your natural texture can help camouflage inevitable frizz.
How long should protective braids stay in?
Most protective styles should not be worn for more than eight weeks. “After about two months, the hair will have new growth and may cause tangling and twisting,” says hairstylist Diane Bailey.
Dermatologists also warn against getting protective styles back-to-back. Even when done gently, “repeated tension on the hair root [from protective styles] can lead to mechanical damage, hair loss, and shortening of hair,” says Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, a board-certified dermatologist.
This feature originally appeared on Allure.