Dr. Graf also notes that for extremely sensitive, dry, or rosacea-prone skin, glycolic acid might be too harsh altogether. “Gentler exfoliants, such as lactic acid or polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), might be better options,” she says.
Glycolic acid for normal to acne-prone skin
If your skin generally responds well to skincare acids (or if you’ve built up a tolerance), one of the most effective ways to administer glycolic acid is through a chemical peel.
You can opt for a medical-grade peel at your dermatologist’s office once a month—or, more conveniently, use glycolic-acid peel pads at home. Since these are less potent, they can be used two to three times a week.
Good options include No7 Glycolic Exfoliating Pads, which contain 10% glycolic acid to gently exfoliate, and Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta Extra Strength Daily Peel, which harnesses the power of five AHAs (glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and salicylic) to resurface the top layer of skin.
Peel pads are particularly easy to use, since they’re already saturated with the formula: Simply grab a pad with clean hands, and swipe it all over your face and neck. Avoid the eye area, and make sure you’re not pressing down too hard or scrubbing.
If you’re using a bottled toner or glycolic-acid solution, Tracy Evans, a board-certified dermatologist and medical director of Pacific Skin and Cosmetic Dermatology, advises using a cotton pad to administer the product (using the same method) as a first layer after cleansing your skin.
Another option is to use a glycolic-acid mask, used once a week for about 10 minutes. Dr. Graf recommends the Charlotte Tilbury Super Radiance Resurfacing Facial for a glow boost in oily and combination skin types, “as it can help combat clogged pores and acne-prone skin.” Just make sure you’re washing it off thoroughly and following with barrier-repair products.
While it might take a little trial and error to find which application method works best with your skincare routine, remember that you should only be testing out one at a time. Using glycolic acid in multiple steps of your routine—or using concentrated products every day—“can result in dry, irritated skin,” Dr. Evans says.
Combining glycolic acid with other actives
If you’re adding an exfoliating acid to your lineup, it’s also important to balance it with hydrating, soothing counterparts. “Glycolic pairs well with hydrating and barrier-repair ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and niacinamide,” Dr. Graf says.
On the other hand, if you already have a strong acid like retinol in your regimen, you generally shouldn’t mix it with a new glycolic-acid product. Using glycolic acid with other products that target cell turnover “can overwhelm your skin and lead to irritation,” according to Dr. Graf.