This specially curated range for all skin types including sensitive skin, irritated skin, impaired moisture barriers, etc features three different serums and Maracuja Moisturiser and a Centella And Green Tea Cleanser — the essentials. The hero products being the retinol and that Green Tea cleanser that is able to move sunscreen and makeup without it being overly stripping or drying to the skin while combating sensitivity.
On the topic of green tea. We decided to quiz Hyram on some of the internet’s most asked skincare questions and here are this expert’s two cents.
Is retinol hype just hype or is it a deserved skin legend?
“Retinol’s ability to help fight premature aging is unmatched, we know this. But the interesting thing about retinol is that it was first introduced to the industry to be able to help with acne and acne scarring in the skin. Retinol turns over the skin cells, which means you’re producing a lot more, baby skin cells that come to the surface of your skin. The main primary concern I saw from my audience was how do I get rid of acne scarring and how to get rid of the pigmentation that comes after I have a breakout? Retinol is incredible for that, it’s one of the best-researched ingredients out there for repairing that deep-set damage in the skin and renewing the skin’s turnover cycle. For our Selfless by Hyram retinol serum we paired it with rainbow algae because algae not only is an incredible organism but also has really impressive data for helping reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation within the skin which is one of the primary side effects of acne scarring as well. Retinol does have the reputation for being pretty drying to the skin, leaving it super sensitive to the touch or very red. So we wanted to balance that by creating a gentle formula that can be utilised maybe every other day.”
Should we use retinol on wet or dry skin?
“I’ve always gone down the route of recommending that you use retinol on dry skin. One of the reasons why is that retinol tends to bind to water, which makes it sink into the skin a lot deeper than if your skin was dry. If you’re using a really strong retinol product, when your skin is damp and it makes it penetrate the skin even deeper, that can cause some sensitivity and irritation for people. But this is the most gentle retinol formula I’ve been able to find on the market. But to be honest, it really comes down to personal preference.”
Is higher % always better when it comes to active ingredients?
“I think as an industry, we have grown to have an obsession with higher percentages, higher concentrations, higher actives. that’s not always a good thing because when it comes to skincare, it’s largely prevention over repairing. We tend to get focused on like, ‘how is this gonna transform my skin? How is it gonna repair the skin?’ But the best thing that you can do is to put effective ingredients and products in place early on to be able to prevent all of those things that, we would’ve had to go through so much to have to get rid of. Gen-Z or millennials are really starting to prioritise skincare, but may not have necessarily at this stage struggled with 20+ years of dark spots or acne scarring on the face, so they can go into it with that preventative approach. So higher percentages may not always be necessary.
What are the rules of exfoliation? Should we be doing it daily?
“Exfoliate your skin like every other day or very gently every day to get rid of that dead skin buildup. It’s a lot better to do it consistently and regularly. If you’re not regularly exfoliating the skin, it can lead to a lot of buildup/clusters of dead skin cells on your face and your skin isn’t shedding itself at the same rate that it is creating new skin cells. So the benefit of a gentle chemical exfoliant is that it’s able to slowly dissolve away those dead skin cells to make sure that you’re getting the brand new baby skin cells that are coming to the surface, but you’re also getting rid of those old damaged, skin cells that are resting on the top of your face, without the potential for that sensitivity or over-exfoliating experience.”
What are the chemical exfoliants we should be putting in our faces?
“There’s a lot out there to choose from, the ones that have typically been used in the past, are glycolic acid and lactic acid. Those are very popular. However, I will say they are very strong and are really powerful and sometimes a little bit too powerful for people’s skin. My personal favorites are mandelic acid and PHA because not only are they just as effective at removing those dead skin cells, the likelihood for irritation and sensitivity is a lot less intense and are well tolerable by different skin concerns and different skin tones.”
How many steps are too many steps when it comes to your skincare routine?
“I always say it comes down to the person for me. I like to keep it pretty simple. When it comes to the overall health of the skin, the more ingredients that you’re introducing to your skin, the higher the likelihood that you could have a reaction or a sensitivity to one of those ingredients. By keeping your skincare routine pretty simple and effective, that’s the best way of ensuring that doesn’t happen. Also, for a lot of people, it means you’re more likely to have a consistent routine if you’re keeping it to a shortlist which is more realistic. I like to keep my skincare to 4-6 products. During the day, the cleanser, the salicylic acid serum to help with oil control, the niacinamide moisturiser, and then a sunscreen. At nighttime is where I get to indulge a little bit more in the experience, really focusing on skin repair and introducing more products. It just depends on what you prefer, but if you’re new to skincare, or you’ve struggled with that consistency in the past, keep it short and sweet and simple. As you move forward if you’d like slowly add on more products and make sure that you have that core routine in place to be able to rely on all the time is.”
How has glazed-donut skin got TikTok on this chokehold?
“It’s really been trending a lot, especially with slugging. I personally love that people are focusing more on that because in the past there was an interest in the very matte-looking skin, more one dimensional, but now they want the skin to look shiny and healthy. When your health is good and when your skin looks healthy, it has a natural glow to it, giving you that appearance of a glazed donut. When I go to bed at night, my skin always looks greased up. I look like I just slathered oil all over my face. Your skin overnight goes through transepidermal water loss, which is where you lose water through the surface of your skin. That’s what causes a lot of issues. Our skin is only able to retain moisture if we’re properly moisturising the night before. Slugging is good because if you’re just really deeply nourishing your skin before you go to bed to help with that really glowy skin that we all want.”
Does the order you apply your skincare products actually matter?
“I am not one of those people that says like the order of application is everything. It really just comes down to what you enjoy the most from an experience standpoint, I’d say the only hardcore rule is that you definitely want sunscreen to always be last because otherwise, it can compromise its protective ability. However, for general guidance, I’d recommend doing it like thin to thickest consistency. So start off with your serum, then your eye cream, and finish up with your moisturiser? I will say that while applying retinol, some people experience some sensitivity, a great way to kind of curb that issue is to apply your moisturiser first and then apply the retinol afterwards. The moisturiser will have occlusive ingredients in it that kind of operate as a barrier on the skin, while the retinol will still seep into the skin, but it’ll do it at a much slower rate and not be as intensely active. Don’t overcomplicate it though.”
We are seeing lots of chat about green tea in gen-z skincare? What’s the hype about?
“Green tea primarily helps to reinforce the barrier, the resistance, and the strength of the skin. This is why it’s been used in Korean skincare for so long, to be able to combat things like skin damage and premature aging. Its powerful ability to calm the skin makes it a super attractive ingredient, giving a calming relieving, redness-reducing benefits.”
Skin tools, yay or nay?
“I think skin tools can be great. There are certain tools that I do recommend should be done by professionals, for example, microblading, or anything that has to do with puncturing your skin to encourage cell regeneration. But all in all, tools are great, face rollers, guasha, microcurrent technology etc. Be mindful that as cool as they are a lot of times they are very expensive, so maybe just do what works with your budget. I’ve recently gotten into microcurrent technology, it’s super cool. I’m also obsessing over those ice balls that you put in the freezer and press against your eye area.”
Selfless by Hyram is now available to shop from Cult Beauty.
For more from Glamour UK Beauty & Entertainment Assistant Shei Mamona, follow her on Instagram @sheimamona