Navigating the ever-changing world of skincare is no mean feat. From hyaluronic acid and niacinamide to polyglutamic acid and collagen, some of skincare’s buzziest ingredients can prove difficult enough to pronounce, let alone fully understand. But as more and more ingredients take to the skincare stage, skin experts and dermatologists are keen to ensure we avoid skincare overwhelm as much as possible.
For years, we have known that the easiest and simplest way to keep skin healthy is through prevention, and that’s why daily SPF application is so important. But the truth is, SPF isn’t the only way we should be protecting our skin. In fact, there’s a whole group of important ingredients that can help stave off other forms of damage too.
There’s high chance you’ve already heard of the term antioxidant in skincare, and you’d be forgiven if you’ve already filed it away in the back of your brain with hundreds of other unimportant skincare terms. However, with experts saying that, along with SPF, antioxidants are the most important and efficacious ingredients around, it’s time to brush up on your antioxidant knowledge.
What are antioxidants?
First of all, it’s important to know exactly what antioxidants are and how they can help your skin. Medical director at Vie Aesthetics, Dr Ioannis Liakas explains: “Antioxidants are substances that protect against oxidative damage that comes from environmental factors, such as UV rays and pollution. They limit product of free radicals and neutralise them when they come into contact with the skin. Free radicals are responsible for the depletion of collagen in our skin, resulting in fine lines, wrinkles, sagging and dark spots. Antioxidants are arguably one of the most important ingredients in skincare products because damaging free radicals are lurking everyone, invisible to the eye and bad news for your skin.”
But incorporating antioxidants into your routine does require some basic knowledge. Different antioxidants have different short-term affects – from glow-boosting to skin-smoothing. Because of this, it’s important to know exactly which antioxidant ingredient suits your skin’s needs best.
To help decode the complex world of antioxidants and get to the bottom of exactly which ingredients deserve our attention (and hard-earned cash), we’ve reached out to some of skincare’s most in-the-know experts. Besides SPF, according to experts, these are the four most important skincare ingredients to have on your radar if you’re serious about your skin’s health.
Vitamin C
When it comes to antioxidants, vitamin C is considered the crème de la crème. “Often listed as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is one of the most researched and well-known antioxidants,” says Dr Teuta Berisha, aesthetic doctor at DEFINE clinic. “Not only does it help neutralise free radicals, it is also an effective skin brightening agent, reducing pigmentation and improving an uneven skin tone,” she adds. Best applied in the morning to help fend off any free-radical damage that skin might be subjected to throughout the day, vitamin C is a well-respected glow-booster.
But its efficacy doesn’t come without some compromise. Aesthetic doctor at Kat & Co., Dr Ana Mansouri explains: “Vitamin C is a very fragile and unstable molecule. It’s worth investing in a good quality serum with a stable formulation, as you may otherwise miss out on the benefits.” As well as this, be sure to look for dark bottles and keep it away from sun light, as this can also cause the ingredient to become unstable.
Try: Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Serum, £140, is widely considered one of the best on the market, but it comes with a really steep price tag. For something a little more purse-friendly, The Inkey List 15% Vitamin C and EGF Serum, £14.99, contains both vitamin C for its antioxidant benefits, as well as peptide, EGF, to further encourage collagen production.
Vitamin E
You might be most familiar with vitamin E in relation to its nourishing properties for dry and irritated skin, but did you know it’s also an antioxidant? “It is an oil-soluble antioxidant which is naturally found in foods and our bodies. In skincare, it helps to strengthen the skin barrier function and has moisturising and healing properties. Importantly, vitamin E assists in cellular restoration caused by factors such as sun damage and healing scars and burns,” explains Dr Catherine Borysiewicz, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic. Due to its richness, it’s worth noting that vitamin E isn’t typically suitable for oily or acne-prone skin.
Try: If your skin is feeling particular dry, tight or uncomfortable, Alpha-H Vitamin E, £29, can be applied immediately after cleansing in the morning to help soothe, moisturise and calm the complexion, as well as provide antioxidant protection throughout the day.
Resveratrol
While some of the other ingredients on this list might ring a bell, resveratrol is currently a relatively lesser-known antioxidant, but its powerful properties mean it’s creeping its way into more products. “Resveratrol is found naturally in the skin of fruit and berries, as well as red wine. It helps to improve skin function, as well as reduce damage caused by UVB radiation. On top of that, it has anti-ageing benefits as well as antibacterial, antifungal and anti-inflammatory properties which help to reduce the risk of infection and promote healing,” reveals Dr Borysiewicz. The bad news is, drinking copious amounts of red wine doesn’t give the same benefits.
Try: Caudalie Resvératrol [Lift] Firming Cashmere Cream, £42, can be applied in your morning skincare routine, before SPF, to provide soothing hydration. It is also formulated with hyaluronic acid and vegan collagen to further relieve dryness and plump fine lines.
Vitamin A/Retinol
We all know that retinol, which is a derivative of vitamin A, is considered one of the most powerful skincare ingredients out there, thanks to its ability to speed up cell turnover and improve collagen production. While other antioxidants offer protection against damage, retinol can help deal with the appearance of existing damage too. “Retinol is commonly known as a correctional antioxidant because of its ability to accelerate skin renewal. It helps to smooth fine lines and wrinkles and reduce the appearance of scarring and pigmentation,” explains Dr Liakas.
But be warned, retinol can be irritating on the skin and should only be used in the evening. “Start with lower concentrations of retinol and increase as you are able. Also try ‘short contact therapy’, which means leaving product on your skin for a few hours and rinsing off, gradually building up to leaving on overnight,” advises Dr Borysiewicz. And never scrimp on your SPF application!
Try: If you’re new to retinol, Frank Body Rewind Retinol Serum, £19.95, is a low-level retinol serum formulated with niacinamide to help balance the skin while it works.