It’s also important to think what’s best on an individual basis. “Remember, everyone’s skin is different, so it’s important to pay attention to how the skin reacts to different products and adjust the routine accordingly,” Krishna says. “If you have any concerns or persistent skin issues, it’s best to consult with a dermatologist,” he concluded.
Should teens and tweens be using active skincare?
There’s some unease around more potent active ingredients and whether they’re appropriate or safe for tween skin. “The main thing to keep in mind when it comes to younger skin is that we build a routine that is simple, effective, but one that doesn’t overwhelm the skin to the point where their delicate skin barrier can be compromised,” insists Dr Mahto. “If, however, there are some skincare concerns, the most common one being acne, then there are a few actives that can be introduced,” she adds.
“For young adults prone to breakouts, salicylic acid is a great active ingredient to introduce in the form of cleansers and toners (more on that below). Benzoyl peroxide can also help manage acne and spots,” advises Dr Ayed.
However, there are ways of adding these ingredients in that are measured and gentle. “Depending on the skin concern, I would advise introducing one active at a time,” recommends Dr Mahto. “If acne is a concern, then choose salicylic acid to begin with and keep the rest of the routine streamlined,” she says.
The frequency used can be tailored to tweens, too. For instance, you could introduce a new ingredient once or twice a week, in the evening, then build from there. The same goes for the strength (which is sometimes written on the bottle, e.g. 2% salicylic acid). “I would recommend starting with lower strengths to begin with. I would also encourage a patch test before introducing new products,” says Dr Mahto. “If specific skin concerns aren’t improving, please get in touch with a consultant dermatologist who will be able to provide a formal diagnosis and recommend an appropriate treatment plan,” she adds.
As for the best skincare ingredients to know for teenagers…
Vitamin C
“Vitamin C is an antioxidant that protects the skin from free radicals from the sun and is a benefit to everyone regardless of age. It protects your skin from damage, stimulates collagen growth and supports existing collagen. I always warn my clients that the sun you get as a teen is going to affect how you look in your 30s, 40s, and 50s, which is why it’s important to start a good routine in your adolescence,” explains Dr Michael Gowen. “Vitamin C is also great for teens because it’s going to provide relief from hyperpigmentation caused by acne and overall supports skin tone and texture. My favourite Vitamin C for tweens, teens and beyond is the Bubble Skincare Day Dream Tone and Texture Serum. The derivative of Vitamin C used in Day Dream is a gentler form that’s perfect for young skin.
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid (also known as a BHA) is one of the most popular and derm-recommended products for counteracting acne, however it is a strong ingredient, so needs to be applied carefully. “Salicylic acid can be abrasive to the skin as it breaks down dead skin cells and combats inflammation which both can play a role in acne. For my clients with sensitive skin, I tell them to do a salicylic acid sandwich by using a toner, a layer of moisturiser, then the salicylic acid serum and finally another layer of moisturiser to help create a barrier and reduce redness and irritation,” advises Dr Gowen. “I love the Bubble Skincare Super Clear Blemish Prevention Serum (2% Salicylic Acid) for my sensitive clients because the formula includes Willow Bark Extract and Colloidal Oatmeal which have anti-inflammatory benefits,” he says.
What are the mistakes to avoid for teen and tween skincare?
Tween skin is juicy, bouncy and delicate, so it needs to be treated gently so as not to damage the skin barrier and create problems like dryness. “When it comes to my younger clients, I see a lot of overuse of harsh chemicals,” says Dr Gowen. “In pre-teen and teen years, you can never go wrong with a gentle skincare routine. It’s best to use products with the least amount of harsh chemicals and a simple routine that will keep you consistent and increase compliance for years to come,” he says.
“I’d be cautious about over-exfoliating the skin. Ensure your teen isn’t using a chemical exfoliator (liquid toners and serums with AHAs and PHAs like glycolic acid) and a physical exfoliator (think: face scrubs) at the same time, to avoid irritation,” says Dr Ayed. “Ceramides can help protect young adults’ skin barrier whilst retaining moisture, too,” she recommends.
Also, be wary of oil-infused formulas. “Young adults are prone to developing oily skin due to hormonal changes, so oil-free formulas and skincare designed to soothe breakouts are useful too,” says Dr Ayed. “Many brands now create skincare products specifically for teen skin, which are gentle enough to be used in the morning and evening and can help alleviate skin concerns; allowing your young adult to feel their best,” she says.