Christopher Kane has a unique way of looking at the world… quirky is putting it mildly. Designer inspirations usually run the gamut of art, film and architecture… occasionally looking to a long-gone aristocrat as muse… (so far, so bourgeoise) but Kane looks beyond the obvious and creates fashion influenced by biology textbook illustrations, barmaids or the lining inside a coffin. And it looks incredible.
For autumn / winter 2023 Kane mixed latex (one of his favourite fabrics and a recurring motif) with delicate lace, cut into bra shapes, and smart grey wool – the sort of fabric you’d use for suits, or school uniforms. It worked.
Latex pencil skirts came with bustles and reams of layered peplums that looked like petals unfurling over the model’s hips while lace dresses hinted at the wider trend for boudoir vibes that we have seen all over the catwalk this season.
Pressed flower florals looked groundbreaking for autumn and chunky cashmere knits, with curvilinear seams, looked cosy and chic. Red popped up as the boldest colour in the collection (it’s a major mood for autumn / winter 2023) and Kane experimented to create AI prints of rats, chicks and piglets that demand closer attention. Weird and wonderful
As well as conjuring up looks that could easily segue into edgy editorial fashion shoots, appear on the red carpet or take a starring role in music videos, there are plenty of solutions for every day life. Since launching his own label in 2006, the Glaswegian designer, alongside sister Tammy, has continued to work with the same esoteric references, while always making his collections utterly fresh and, crucially, eminently wearable. At Christopher Kane there is always a high fashion frisson balanced with clever commercial nous. These are clothes that will be bought, worn and loved for many seasons ahead.
With London Fashion Week upholding its reputation as the champion of avant garde talent and new names to know, the turnover of designers on the schedule can sometimes be dizzying. The brands that are the hot ticket one season could drop off the schedule into obscurity the next, but Christopher Kane still retains his buzz, desirability and creates alchemy with his collections season after season. We stan.